Sustainable fashion is no longer a niche trend but a force reshaping the industry and the work of models. The global resale market is projected to grow to $367 billion by 2029, expanding three times faster than traditional retail; EU regulations against "greenwashing" are tightening; and in New York, a new law has, for the first time, capped model agency commissions and protected model rights. Let's delve into the numbers and sources to understand what's truly happening with sustainable fashion in 2026—and what it means for a model's career. To be upfront: some of the loud eco-numbers online are exaggerated, and we separate facts from estimates.
Sustainable Fashion is Already a Major Market
The most visible and well-measured segment is resale (the sale of pre-owned clothing):
- The global secondhand market will grow to $367 billion by 2029 (from ~$197 billion in 2023), with an average annual growth of ~10%—three times faster than the overall apparel market.
- In the US, the secondary clothing market grew by 14% in 2024 and is expected to reach $74 billion by 2029; online resale increased by 23%.
- Clothing rental is still smaller (~$2.4 billion in 2024) but is also growing.
However, estimates of the "sustainable fashion" market size vary significantly among researchers—from $30 to $33 billion by 2030, with an annual growth rate of 8–23%—so it's more honest to present this figure as a guideline rather than a fact. (Data from ThredUp Resale Report / GlobalData; forecasts by Coherent Market Insights and others.)
Consumers and Brands: The Shift is Real but Not Unconditional
There is demand for sustainability, but it is easy to overestimate:
- 73% of Gen Z say they are willing to pay more for eco-friendly products (First Insight). However, an important caveat: in practice, the willingness to pay more is declining—McKinsey notes a drop of up to 4 percentage points, and the share of top executives who see sustainability as a key growth risk fell from 29% to 18% in a year.
- However, when eco-friendliness is verified (transparent supply chain, digital product passport), 74% are willing to pay extra.
- A "slow fashion recession" has emerged: ethical brands with high prices are struggling because consumers accustomed to fast fashion resist the markup.
The fight against "greenwashing" is intensifying. The EU's Green Claims Directive is stalled, but another—ECGT Directive (EU 2024/825)—is becoming mandatory: from September 2026, it bans vague terms like "eco" without substantiation. Precedents already exist: H&M's "Conscious" line ended in a global settlement of ~$3 million, and the UK regulator has targeted ASOS and Boohoo.
The Environmental Cost of Fashion: Facts Without Myths
There are many incorrect figures here, so let's separate the verified from the contentious:
- Emissions: proceed with caution. The common figure of "10% of global emissions" is disputed: according to UNEP data for 2025, it's ~2–8%, with independent estimates around 3–10%. It's accurate to state "about 2–8% (often cited as up to 10%, but this figure is contentious)."
- Water: around 20% of industrial water pollution globally is from dyeing and fabric treatment; a single cotton T-shirt uses ~2,700 liters of fresh water.
- Microplastics: one wash of synthetics releases up to 700,000 fibers.
- Waste (the most reliable figures): every second, a truckload of textiles is sent to landfill or incinerated; less than 1% of clothing is recycled into new garments; up to $500 billion is lost annually due to under-worn and unrecycled items (Ellen MacArthur Foundation). In the EU, 87% of worn clothing is incinerated or landfilled (European Parliament).
What This Means for Models
The shift to sustainability is changing the model's role:
- Longer relationships with brands. Slow fashion builds campaigns "seasons ahead," not in an endless stream—this is closer to long-term contracts than one-off fast fashion turnover.
- Demand for "real," diverse, and older models—but with a candid caveat. Many declare sustainability, yet 97.7% of runway looks for the Fall-Winter 2025 season were standard size (Vogue Business): the gap between rhetoric and actual casting remains significant.
- New work formats: resale platforms, rental, and clothing repair programs create editorials and UGC with worn and vintage items—a type of work absent from fast fashion catalogs. A classic example is Adolfo Domínguez's "Old Clothes" campaign, where models were photographed in 30–40-year-old brand items.
- Model rights have become law. The New York Fashion Workers Act (effective June 19, 2025) introduced payment transparency, capped agency commissions at 20%, and protections against harassment and consent for a model's "digital copy."
Russia: The Market is Forming
In Russia, sustainable fashion lags behind the EU and the US, but resale is growing: the clothing resale market is estimated at approximately ₽253 billion by 2025 (from ~₽200 billion in 2023). The luxury resale leader is Oskelly (up to ~45% of the segment), with Avito dominating C2C (growing ~40% annually). According to a VTsIOM survey (2021), 55% of Russians consider eco-friendliness when purchasing, but data varies and is likely softened—thus, Russia should currently be described as an emerging market.
What Models Should Do
- Work with sustainable and resale brands—this is a growing segment with longer and more meaningful contracts.
- Emphasize authenticity and longevity—sustainable fashion needs real, diverse faces, not a one-time image.
- Know your rights: agency commissions should not exceed a reasonable 20%, and conditions should be transparent.
- Stay visible: respond to castings, keep up with editorials on @getmodelcom, and complete your model profile.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it true that fashion is the second most polluting industry?
This is a popular but contentious claim. According to UNEP estimates for 2025, fashion accounts for about 2–8% of global greenhouse gas emissions (often cited as up to 10%, but this figure is disputed). It's more accurate to speak of a significant, but not "second place," contribution.
Is there more work for models in sustainable fashion?
New formats are emerging—resale, rental, vintage, and repair editorials, plus demand for diverse and older types. However, the gap between brands' eco-rhetoric and actual casting is still large.
How large is the resale market?
The global secondhand market will grow to $367 billion by 2029 and is expanding three times faster than traditional retail; in Russia, resale is estimated at approximately ₽253 billion by 2025.
How does sustainability protect models themselves?
An ethical approach to the industry includes worker rights: the New York Fashion Workers Act of 2025 capped agency commissions at 20%, introduced payment transparency, and consent for the use of a model's digital copy.
Sources
Data collected from open sources: ThredUp Resale Report 2025 (GlobalData), European Parliament (water, waste, microplastics), Ellen MacArthur Foundation, Climate Feedback / UNEP (emissions), McKinsey State of Fashion, Model Alliance (New York law), Vogue Business AW25. Russian data—industry press estimates (Inc. Russia, VTsIOM).